The value of a diamond is determined
by its Cut, Color, Clarity and Carat, also known
as the classic "Four C's". Understanding such
criteria as diamond grading reports, and the factors
effecting a diamond's cost will help the buyer
make a confident and sound decision when making
a purchase.
Deciding on a shape is a very important
step in the selection process of your diamond.
Following are some examples of the classic shapes
of diamonds:
Round
The round brilliant diamond
is the most popular diamond shape, the
most brilliant of all the cuts, and
is the most expensive.
Round diamonds are most often found
in engagement rings and are popular
as stud earrings and in pendants.
Princess
Most people like the Princess
because it is rectangular and yet has
some of the sparkle of a Round brilliant
cut.
The princess cut may have either 50
facets (21 crown, 4 girdle, 25 pavilion)
or 58 facets (21 crown, 4 girdle, 33
pavilion), depending on how the pavilion
is cut. This cut is most frequently
a square shape where the length to width
ratio is 1.0 to 1.1.
The princess cut tends to be the smallest
of the shapes for the same carat weight
since the cut is basically an upside-down
pyramid with most of the carat weight
in the pavilion. Princess cut requires
great care when setting and needs to
be protected to avoid chipping or cracking.
Oval
Ovals provide a bigger
surface area than a round with the same
carat weight and therefore are an excellent
option for shoppers looking for a brilliance
of the round but a bigger size for their
dollar.
Usually oval cut has the standard 58
facet pattern. Look for even, well rounded
ends with a full body having an optimal
length-to-width ratio of 1.33-1.66.
Emerald
The emerald cut is not
a brilliant cut, but is called a step
cut. Step cuts are comprised of larger
facets which act like mirrors. Because
of the angle, size and shape of the
facets, the emerald cut shows less brilliance
than the other brilliant cut diamonds.
However, the emerald cut stone reveals
a classic beauty and elegance not seen
in other cuts. Because of the open and
large facets, we recommend a higher
color and clarity than you might consider
for a brilliant cut stone because they
are more likely to become visible at
lower grades.
Pear
The Pear Shaped Brilliant
is a combination of a Round brilliant
and a Marquise cut.
The pear shape usually has the 58 facet
brilliant pattern, but can be cut with
different numbers of pavilion mains
of 8,7,6, or 4 facets. In a pear, look
for a well-shaped point and an even
shaped opposite end with a length-to-width
ratio of 1.50-1.75.
Pear-shaped diamonds work great for
pendants and drop earrings.
Heart
The heart shape is a brilliant
cut and bears some similarity to the
pear shape, except that there is a cleft
at the top.
It is important to look for a perfectly
symmetrical appearance where the lobes
(top arches) are of even height and
breadth, and the overall shape is pleasing
to the eye.
Marquise
The name "Marquise" came
from a legend of the Marquise of Pompadour
that the Sun King wanted a Diamond to
be polished into the shape of the mouth
of the Marquise!
The marquise is typicaly cut into 58
facet standard brilliant (33 crown,
25 pavilion), the same as the round
brilliant. The crown cut is sometimes
modified in the marquise to form what
is called a "French Tip," where the
bezel facet at the point of the stone
is eliminated. Marquise diamonds frequently
display a bow tie, so try to find a
stone in which this is minimal or absent.
The marquise has a very big surface
area for the carat weight so it's an
excellent option if you want a big,
long look for less dollars.
Trillion
The trillion cut was developed
in the late seventies.
The trillion is a triangle that has
equilateral sides. It is a combination
cut of the step and the brilliant cut
diamond and when cut correctly has a
wonderful brilliance. It is often cut
shallow and often looks large for its
carat weight.
Trillion diamonds are beautiful when
flanking a center diamond, or in a more
advante-guarde piece as a center diamond.
A matched pair also create beautiful
earrings.
Baguette
The baguette is a step
cut style used frequently as a side
stone.
Baguettes have unbeveled corners, usually
only two rows of facets, and may be
rectangular or tapered. Like the emerald
cut, the baguette does not have the
sparkle of a brilliant cut but has a
classic beauty.
Higher color and clarity are important
because there are not facets to hide
inclusions or body color.
CUT
Cut refers to the proportions and shape of
the finished diamond, and is the most important
factor in determining the brilliance of a diamond.
A classic round brilliant cut diamond has 58
facets - 33 on the top, 24 on the bottom and
the culet ( 1 point at the bottom - another
tiny facet ).
The finished diamond should be symmetrical.
The table should be symmetrical, well-centered,
and flat, not sloping. The cutlet should be
centered when viewed from the top. The crown
and pavilion facets should be in exact geometric
relation to one another. And, the girdle should
be perfectly round exhibiting a straight edge
when viewed from the side.
Too Shallow
Diamonds that are cut too thin or shallow allow
the light to pass through the sides of the diamond
and appear lifeless, dull, or flat in the center.
Too Deep
Diamonds that are cut too deep or high do not
reflect enough light back through the top of
the diamond and appear to be dark in the center.
